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Scoring and Steaming Wallpaper
Imagine a hallway papered with a heavy vinyl print, hung directly over plaster, then papered over again a few years later. Pulling at a seam yields nothing but small torn triangles. This is the situation where scoring and steaming earn their place. Scoring breaks through the water resistant face so moisture can reach the paste; steaming drives heat and moisture deep enough to soften old glue. Used together, with patience, they turn a frustrating wall into a manageable one.
What scoring actually does
Many wallcoverings, especially vinyl and coated papers, have a face that sheds water. Spraying them with warm water accomplishes little because the liquid beads up and runs off. Scoring punctures or slices that face in many small places, opening paths for water or steam to reach the adhesive behind.
The most common scoring tool is a round, hand held device with small toothed wheels on its underside. Moved across the wall in loose circles, it perforates the paper with tiny holes. Light pressure is enough. Pressing hard can push the teeth through the paper and into the wall surface, especially on drywall, leaving hundreds of small punctures that must later be filled. A utility knife can also be used to make shallow crosshatch cuts, but it is slower and riskier for the wall underneath.
Scoring is not always necessary. Uncoated traditional papers absorb water readily, and scoring them adds little. Test a small area by spraying warm water and waiting a few minutes; if the paper darkens and softens, it is already absorbing, and scoring can be skipped.
Soaking solutions
For paper that absorbs water, soaking is often enough. Warm water applied with a garden pump sprayer, a spray bottle or a large sponge soaks into the paper and reactivates the paste. Some people add a small amount of liquid fabric softener or dish soap to help the water penetrate. Commercial wallpaper removers contain enzymes or wetting agents that break down certain adhesives.
The key is giving the solution time to work. Soak a section about the width of a strip, wait several minutes, then soak it again before scraping. Working in small areas prevents the solution from drying out before you reach it. Going back and forth between two sections, soaking one while scraping the other, keeps things moving.
How a steamer works
A wallpaper steamer consists of a water tank with a heating element, a hose and a flat steam plate. Once the water boils, steam flows through the hose and out of the plate. Holding the plate against the wall for a short time heats and moistens the paper and the paste beneath it. Steam reaches further into thick papers and multiple layers than sprayed water, and heat helps soften old adhesives that do not respond to cold water.
The technique is simple: hold the plate flat against a section of paper for the time recommended by the steamer's instructions, typically somewhere from several seconds to under a minute depending on the paper. Move the plate to the next section and immediately scrape the area just steamed, while it is still hot and soft. With practice, a rhythm develops of steaming one patch while scraping the previous one.
Scraping without gouging
A wide scraper with a flexible blade or a dedicated wallpaper scraper with a replaceable blade works best. Hold it at a low angle to the wall, almost flat, and push gently under the softened paper. Steep angles dig into plaster or tear drywall paper. Round the corners of a straight blade slightly with a file or choose a scraper with rounded corners to reduce gouges.
Let the paper come away on its own as much as possible. If it resists, apply more moisture or steam and wait rather than forcing it. Force is what damages walls.
Patience is the most important tool
The single biggest factor in a successful removal is time. Rushing leads to under soaked paper, more scraping, and more wall damage. Experienced removers often say the paper tells you when it is ready: it turns soft and slightly translucent, and the scraper slides under it with little pressure. If you are fighting it, it is not ready.
Plan for removal to take longer than expected. A small bathroom can take an entire day. A large room with multiple layers can stretch across a weekend or more. Breaking the job into sessions prevents fatigue, which is when slips and gouges happen.
Safety while steaming
- Steam and hot water drip down the plate and the wall. Wear long sleeves and gloves, and never work with the plate directly overhead without eye protection.
- Keep the steamer's tank on the floor where it cannot tip.
- Turn off electricity to outlets and switches on the walls being worked, and tape over them.
- Let the unit cool completely before refilling.
- Ventilate the room; steam raises humidity quickly.
Drywall needs a gentler hand
On drywall, the paper face of the board can absorb moisture and soften just like the wallpaper. Too much steam or soaking makes it bubble, and the scraper then tears it. Use shorter steaming times, scrape gently, and test frequently. If the drywall face starts to lift, stop working that area and let it dry before continuing with less moisture.
Plaster is more tolerant. It handles steam and soaking well, though very old plaster can be soft or crumbly in places and should be watched for loosening.
Dealing with multiple layers
When several layers of paper are present, they often have to be removed one at a time. Score and steam the top layer, remove it, then repeat for the next. Sometimes the top layer comes off easily and exposes an older paper that is bonded tightly. Each layer may need its own approach. Paint between layers complicates matters, since paint seals the paper underneath; scoring becomes essential to break through.
Washing off leftover paste
After every bit of paper is removed, the wall will still carry a thin film of adhesive. Wash the walls with warm water and a sponge, changing the water often, until the surface no longer feels slick or tacky once dry. Leftover paste interferes with primer and paint, causing cracking and peeling. A final rinse and a full day of drying set the stage for repairs and priming.
Disposal and cleanup
Wet wallpaper is heavy and sticky. Keep a trash bag close at hand and drop scraps directly into it rather than letting them collect on the floor, where they stick to shoes and spread around the house. Roll up drop cloths carefully. Clean scraper blades frequently to keep them sharp and free of paste buildup.
Knowing when to call for help
Some walls are so heavily layered, so damaged underneath or so large that hiring a professional makes sense. Others reveal problems once the paper comes off, such as mould or water damage, that need attention before painting. For most rooms, though, scoring where needed, soaking or steaming patiently and scraping gently will remove even stubborn old paper without wrecking the wall beneath.